Stepping into New Tandoori Cafe in San Jose feels like embarking on a journey to Central Asia without ever leaving town. Strolling directly across the street after school, we entered a vibrant fusion of Pakistani and Indian culture.
Eating here was an immersive sensory experience. Before we even entered, the sounds of a Bollywood drama playing from a wall-mounted TV invited us in. Our attention was immediately captured by a striking indoor mural that radiated with bold yellow hues. It portrayed two women in traditional Indian dance attire, framing a vivid illustration of Lahore. Below the mural were the names of historic sites in Lahore like Bhati Darwaza, a historic gate.
Every corner told a story, from the colorful slogans on the walls to the intricately decorated teapots, which pay homage to the elaborate “truck art” of Pakistan.
For our appetizers, we ordered the samosa and the aloo tikki. Both came with an assortment of sauces, like a herby, tangy mint chutney and a tart tamarind chutney. We preferred the samosa; it had a flaky crust, and the potato and pea interior was packed with fragrant Indian spices. The aloo tikki had a satisfying starchy interior, but we found the flavor to be somewhat bland and overshadowed by the sauces.
Since the restaurant specializes in tandoori and owns one of the only authentic tandoori ovens in the Bay Area, we had high hopes for the tandoori paneer. The presentation of the dish as it arrived at our table was enticing: it came on a sizzling stone plate, with the cubes of paneer resting on an aromatic bed of onions and bell peppers. However, the dish fell flat due to the paneer’s rubbery texture and lack of taste. The cheese cubes lacked the characteristic softness of paneer tikka, and despite having been marinated in a sour sauce, the savory flavor failed to come through over the overwhelming smokiness.
Our favorite dish by far was the chicken tikka masala; boneless chicken cooked in a thick savory gravy with a sweet undertone that perfectly complemented the protein. We paired the tikka masala with the garlic naan, which was flavorful and crispy due to its charred outer crust.
Their chole bhature, a classic Indian dish that features a chickpea curry with fluffy fried bread, was a close second. Here, the star of the show was the bread: crispy on the outside with a chewy interior that melted in our mouths. However, the chickpeas were best when paired with the bread, as the chickpeas alone felt too sweet and slightly imbalanced.
Our server offered us a sample of a potential new menu item, popcorn chicken. The chicken came with a fresh aioli that offered a nice contrast of texture and temperature. While we enjoyed the dish, it lacked an Indian or Pakistani twist, so it felt disjointed from the rest of our meal.
For an extra $4, our food came with a platter of rice and a side salad, which consisted of sliced cucumbers and tomatoes coated with lemon, coriander and mint. Although these additions offered a refreshing bite to contrast with the richness of our entrees, they were not worth the additional charge.
Tandoori Cafe blends the idea of full service and self-service, providing an experience that maintains elements of human interaction. Although we ordered on the device, a chef also waited near our table to offer suggestions.
Coming to New Tandoori Cafe was a memorable dining experience that fused the best of Pakistani and Indian culture with a casual, laid-back atmosphere. The restaurant’s blend of bold flavors, vibrant visuals and friendly service makes it a standout spot for locals looking for an introduction to Desi cuisine.
Additional reporting by Risa Chokhawala, Claire Xu and Tiffany Zhu.